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I got interested in stews for similar reasons as my medieval peasant characters: the need for an economical way to feed ourselves.
In 2007, I had an eight-month non-vacation, the result of moving across the state of Indiana because of my husband’s job. As I searched for my own employment, I tried stretch the food budget, but what the heck do you with low-cost cuts of meat?
Answer: stew. I first turned to The Joy of Cooking and then did my own experimentation. I found chuck roast to be the best cut for the job, rather than cubes labeled “stew meat” and rump roast.
Medieval peasants would have made a variation of this dish with whatever they had on hand, but a beef stew would have been a treat for them because they could not afford to eat meat every day. I wanted to create a recipe using ingredients similar to what was available in eighth century Francia and Saxony, the settings for my novels, The Cross and the Dragon and The Ashes of Heaven’s Pillar—and still be delicious to a modern palate.
Ingredients would also be determined by time of year, what was in season or in storage. For this recipe, I settled on this time of year, shortly after the livestock slaughter. Even in a good year, there was not enough fodder to feed all the animals through the winter. Meat could be preserved through salting, pickling, and smoking, and the temperatures tended to be cold already.
The reason I call this recipe medieval-style is that I cannot truly re-create what the folk would have eaten. Livestock has changed over the centuries, and the conditions they lived in were different from today’s cattle. Another compromise I’ve made is in the mushrooms. Peasants could have found mushrooms in the woods and perhaps dried them for future use, but I am sticking with the plain white button mushrooms I find in the grocery store. If you are at all tempted to use wild mushrooms, pretty please with sugar on top, get them only from a competent, experienced mushroom hunter, someone with lots of gray hair and wrinkles. If you eat the wrong mushroom, you could get seriously ill, as in needing a new liver.
The medieval-style recipe worked at my house. Although some of the barley stuck to the bottom, my husband and I enjoyed the stew. I typically use little salt when cooking but add more at the table, which I did for this stew.
2-pound chuck roast
1/2 to 1 teaspoon dried herbs such as parsley, basil, and thyme
1 large onion
4 medium carrots
2 bottles of beer or ale (Something you would drink—I used Kolsch style ale. And yes, history police, I know medieval people didn’t keep their beer in bottles.)
2-3 stalks of celery with leaves (Medieval folk would have had celeriac in the stores, but celery is easier to get today.)
1 clove garlic
1 8-ounce package of mushrooms
1/4 cup dried split peas (OK, these are split by a machine, but it’s the closest I can get in my small Indiana town to what medieval folk might have had in late fall.)
1/2 cup pearled barely (Stews made by medieval peasants had grain such as rye or barley, and pearled barley is as close as I can get.)
6 radishes (They become mild with cooking.)
4 small turnips (It wouldn’t surprise me if medieval peasants grew these as large as they could, but smaller tastes better.)
If this recipe were truly written for the way I cook, it would include steps like “unload and reload dishwasher so you have space to work” and “if you want to take another step in this kitchen, feed the cats—now.” You definitely want to plan ahead for this. The meat cooks low and slow in moist heat. I typically use a Dutch oven, but some of this could be done in a crock pot.
- Open the bottles of beer/ale.
- Put a Dutch oven on the stove and let it heat on low
- Chop the onion and celery and slice 2 of the carrots. Quarter the mushrooms. Set aside.
- Rinse and sort the split peas and the barley. Set those aside, too.
- Use the flat side of a chef knife to help peel the garlic, the mince and crush it. Set that aside. Yes, there is a purpose for all this.
- Turn up the heat on the Dutch oven to medium low or medium.
- On a separate cutting board, starting cutting the fat out of the chuck roast and throw it into the Dutch oven. You want to render a little fat, just enough to brown the meat. (You can also render bacon to get fat.)
- While the fat is rendering, chop the meat into 2-inch cubes.
- Sprinkle the dried herbs over the meat. For this recipe, I used basil and thyme. Sprinkle a little salt on it. Stir.
- Remove the solid chunks of fat and brown the meat in batches, not letting the pieces touch. If the pot starts smoking, cheat and add a little vegetable oil. Don’t worry about the brown bits on the bottom. Those will flavor the stew.
- Set meat aside and add the onion, celery, carrot, and mushroom mix. Sprinkle with a little salt and stir, letting the mix deglaze the pot. Cook the mix covered about five minutes, but stir frequently. You want the vegetables to soften and for the onions to start to become translucent.
- Add the garlic, stir, let cook for 20 seconds. (If you’re using a crock pot, transfer the ingredients to it.)
- Add the split peas and barley. Stir.
- Add the meat, nestling it in if you can. And add the juices that accumulated.
- Add the beer/ale to almost cover the mix.
- Cover the pot and bring to a boil, then reduce to simmer. This is where you wait until the meat is fork tender, 1 1/2 to 2 hours in a Dutch oven, much longer in a crock pot.
- While you’re waiting, halve the radishes, cut the remaining carrots into 1-inch pieces, and peel and dice the turnips. For now, set aside. (After I had cooked this recipe, someone suggested parsnips, which also were around in medieval Europe. If you like parsnips, you can cut 1 or 2 into 1-inch pieces and add them to the mix.)
- When the meat is tender, add those veggies you chopped in Step 17. Then you wait a little bit longer, 30-40 minutes or until they are tender.
- It’s done! Enjoy.
Carol McGrath said:
I am very hungry after reading this. Medievals interestingly did not have beer until 14th C when hops were introduced. They certainly drank ale. I shall indeed have a go at this recipe . By the way I love The Joy of Cooking which I acquired years ago in California and still have after three decades.
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Kim Rendfeld said:
Thanks for the info. I will keep the introduction of hops in mind. My mother gave me “The Joy of Cooking” when I graduated from college 25 years ago and I still use it.
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Denise Duvall said:
The radishes sound like an interesting addition.
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Kim Rendfeld said:
They definitely are. Those put off by the peppery flavor or heat might be pleasantly surprised with how they taste when cooked.
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jovan66102 said:
Saved this just shortly after you posted. Found it again, and I think I’ll make it in the next few days. Sounds delicious!
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Kim Rendfeld said:
I hope you enjoy.
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jovan66102 said:
Well, it took me several months to get around to it, but thank you! Made it tonight, ate one bowl with a mini-loaf of garlic & rosemary bread. The rest is safely stored in the fridge for later. It was delicious!
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jovan66102 said:
BTW, I used Samuel Smith’s Nut Brown Ale,and I substituted two parsnips for two of the turnips.
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Tim said:
Not just the radishes but *everything* would have been boiled quite excessively by modern standards, partly because the principle fertiliser in medieval gardens would be human in origin. [Note for living history display cooking – beware of modern brews with ‘ale’ in the title; many of them are actually beers. And modern carrots are the wrong colour (orange) – the medieval versions were white. Parsnips might make a better root veg for inclusion.] I often make something quite similar; I find that rather than storing leftovers, just add fresh ingredients and cook again. The more days you can keep it going the better flavour it develops.
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Kim Rendfeld said:
Interesting observations. I imagine the cook used whatever was handy. She was probably glad just to have meat. Root vegetables can tolerate longer periods of cooking, which makes them good for stews. I have seen medieval manuscript pages (online) where the carrots were orange, although wild ones are white, so it is possible both were consumed. One fascinating thing in my research is that even vegetables were different. The flavor of the carrot likely was different than the bred-for-storage types in the stores.
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Paul said:
I would have went with leeks instead of the onion as im pretty sure they were more readily available, just a thought for a more authentic dish 😉
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Kim Rendfeld said:
Onions store quite well, so they likely would be on hand in the winter. In my experience as a gardener, I’ve found onions easier to grow than leeks, although I’ve had leeks survive through colder months.
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Lady Henrieta maree Brussilda said:
I am a Mediavales. Garmguardian@Gmail.com
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Isabel said:
About how many will this serve? Many thanks!
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Kim Rendfeld said:
Six to eight
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